I’ve nagged Bill Davies to give us the story of the transformation of his Crozier Citron Powered, remarkably fast weapon to the Lightening Conductor he now drives with a Moto-Guzzi 1000 ccs Motor
I’ve transposed verbatim his technical story thus far-
The first project for this winter is the manufacture of new Spoked Wheels for the front of my trike, why well having been to the 23rd German Drierad Treffen last year and viewed a fair selection of trikes it became apparent that the original 2Cv wheels make the car look front heavy…IMHO. They are also fitted with a heavy section tyre that adds to the look. The rear wheel and the spare will remain standard 2CV.
There were some very nice shiney ones manufactured from an aluminium billet…a lot of machining and waste but a very nice finish. So I consulted with my welder friend and discussed the use of pipe fittings to manufacture a set of hubs. It is possible to buy un-drilled flanges of a size to be determined by me and concentric pipe reducers.
The plot was hatched , so I ordered a set of 200mm and 150mm flanges and a set of reducers 100mm to 50mm diameter to give an asthetically pleasing design. These duly arrived a week later and were brought to my workshop for drilling. The centre was found( approximate as the finished diameter will be machined to size at a later stage) and the spoke circumference was marked on. Using the same radius the circ was divided into six and the centres popped. Then a line was drawn between a pair of these centres and this was divided into three, a line was scribed through the wheel centre and the two marks to give an extension to the circumference. These two points were then popped and then using the original radius these were then struck around the circ. I now had 18 centres marked on the disc, and now the process was repeated on the other three discs. The design was to have 36 spokes, 18 on both the outer flange and 18 on the inner one, a standard in wire wheels.
Now the drilling commences, start with a 2mm drill to get a good fit to the pop and then open out to 4.5mm. The holes are then countersunk on alternative sides( mark with a marker pen before countersinking as it is easy to get carried away and countersink adjacent holes). The depth was to give a finished thickness of 3mm at the spoke holes.
As I intend to have them interchangeable with the 2CV hubs I also drilled and countersunk the stud holes, also needed to buy new wheel nuts to suit, and these need to be machined for taper match.
The centres were opened out using a hole saw and gently pressure on the drill and lots of oil to clean the teeth. It is necessary to lift the drill frequently to wash off the swarf.
This process was repeated for the four plate flanges, and took approx one day, marking, drilling, and countersinking.
Now a change of location to my pals workshop to use his big lathe and machine the bores to size for the taper pieces and preparation for welding. My pals although retired was a coded welder so I let him weld up the assemblies, the tapers were held off the table by approx 2mm(thick washers) to give a good weld penetration.
After cooling I returned the following day to machine to size, first the small flange then change the hub to do the second one’s small flange, The chuck is four jaw so by alternating it saves changing the jaw settings, But always centred on scribed marks. A stop for size measurement gave me a chance to observe my work…bloody hell…a crack extended half way round the weld. An examination of the other hub identified that a similar crack was present on it also.
We do not know what caused the problem, but we believe the flanges were cut from bright plate and on to mild steel. My friend had had a similar problem in the past, again with bright plate They say practise makes perfect so it was back to the shop for new plates and tapers(£75 down the pan…but that’s a development cost). Then marking out and drilling and countersinking all over again. Then primary machining and then welding, then on with the final sizing. This time inspection was at all stages to search for a crack…none…job well done.
Back home and a clean up took place to smooth off all edges and holes etc, then a trial fit on the stub axle only to find one fitted fine but the other needed a little more off the inside…so back to my pals for a shot on the big lathe.
Then painted up to match the car’s chassis principal colour…Hammerite Blue…it looks close to the French shade. Now it was time to take to the wheel builder for assembly. In a previous life I built up wheels for motorcycle restorations but at that time I knew the size of the spokes…ie length and could buy to order. I needed new spokes and rims so it was easier to give it to the man. Following on from Tom’s experience with steel spokes and nipples I went for galvanised spokes with brass nipples, to stop corrosion problems welding the two together. I spoke to a friend regarding stainless versions and he advised against as they can fire up on tightening before they are under load…not a good plot.
New tyres are the order of the day and I went for 4.00 x 18 as their diameter is similar to the existing wheels so they will give similar loading to the drive train, and the speedo should remain within accepted limits, about 10% faster than normal.. I do not believe it anyway and use the SAT NAV as a check. Another way is to observe the grass as it bends down as you pass, if lying flat your going too fast.
First fit revealed that the studs were too short so had to order new long studs for a Subaro M14.3 spline…M12 x 1.25, these fall through the existing holes(16mm dia) in the hub backplate so had to source material and manufacture top-hat washers to suit. A bit of a torque to pull them through but now they are IN and not coming out. A small worry that was in the back of my mind …could I get my bigpaws through the spokes to fit the wheel nuts and then be able to tighten them…no problems there was plenty clearance and there is a nice line for the wheel wrench.
Other problems to sort out include moving the centre line of the mudguards as the track has increased as has the turning lock so that needs checking for contact and the stops adjusted. Well I decided to buy the new mudguards and checked the internet…none…all sites are showing “due in the summer”. However I eventually found a pair in Germany(the last two in Europe!!!) and awaited with baited breath for there arrival. DPD were a problem but they arrived intact and were a good fit to the tyre so went ahead and fitted them. The brackets that I had made showed that the tyres was very close to the guard. The first run to the vintage motorcycle club resulted in stopping twice to stretch the curve to get more clearance, otherwise all ok and a nice drive…no shakes up to 60mph. Back home and the mounting holes were slotted to give a further 5mm clearance and all is well.
Well am I pleased…they say that Beauty is in the eye of the beholder…and I am happy, and so is my bank account. Now need to get some miles under my belt to prove them and develop their handling characteristics
Thanks to Jimmy Mc Farlane for the use of his welding skills and the Big Lathe
Winter Project 2015..
.Engine SwapAgain going to the Treffen had me thinking…Old git at the Back…none of it, I have a tow bar so was designated recovery in the event of a catastrophe. The other reason was my engine was a 2CV 602cc unit and I was competing against the might of Moto Guzzi and BMW, and I kept up but at times of overtaking I needed a run to get speed up and an overtaking distance of nearly half a mile when encountering an artic lorry. These German drivers go like the clappers when they are being challenged, and my “pals” were off up the road like scalded cats. I had a lot of catching up to do.
So I hatched a plot to convert to a bigger power house and initially proposed to fit a BMW probably a 1000cc. I have a friend who has accumulated a number of bikes and engines so he was going to solve my problem…I thought…no chance. He had plenty of bits and bobs and I could have built up an engine but that takes time etc etc. Then an engine came up on the forum, a Moto Guzzi 1100cc complete with carbs and at a reasonable price. A phone call secured the unit and I duly went south to collect it…took the camper and the dog( he knows nothing about engines but adds to the company).
Got the unit back home and then sorted out filters and gaskets to allow a full inspection prior to inserting into the car.
Now before fitting an engine you need to make a conversion plate to mount the engine/gearbox, and and adaptor for the flywheel to allow the use of the 2CV unit and clutch mechanism. I had a word with Dave P and he sent up a sketch of what he had done and what Phil now sells…so I believe.
Being Scots I am not averse to spending money but I enjoy the chase, so decided to manufacture my own.
Another lump of steel was bought and again I set off for a day at my pals to use the big lathe. I started to machine the plate to get the basic dimensions set up…then I got to thinking that there could be an easier way…manufacture a boss and bore the 2CV flywheel to suit and bolt the two together. Welding is not an option as the flywheel was a cast steel and welding is not practical, although we could have tried brazing but concluded that the heat could have distorted the assembly.
I bored the flywheel to 52mm, at which point the original fixing holes have been removed. On the inside face I extended the flat to 78mm to give a flat face for the cap screws to sit against.
Then I started to machine a boss to give an overall depth of 63.2mm, this is some 48.2mm long and 76.2mm diameter (it’s an piece of 3” bar that my friend had). A shoulder was formed at one end 10mm deep and 52mm dia , to slip into the flywheel.
The boss is bored 6 holes at 8.1mm dia on a 38mm PCD, these holes are counterbored 13mm dia for a depth of 30mm, this to allow the cap screws to be hidden down the holes. The flywheel was drilled 6 holes at 8.1mm dia on a 65mm PCD and the boss drilled and tapped 6 holes at M8 by 30mm deep on a 65mm PCD. This positions the flywheel in the correct relationship to the gearbox and allows the original clutch to be utillised. The two sets of holes are set 30degree apart to maximize the boss material.
The boss is then bored to suit the gearbox input shaft bearing at one end and to suit the crankshaft boss at the other end,
An adaptor plate was then marked out…the drawing on the forum shows the centres for the 2CV gearbox and I had to measure the position of the engine bolts by using a surface table and a height vernier. This was transferred onto a CAD drawing and then a sample was cut using the various dimensions. The 2CV positions were good but the engine was out…a second set of measurements was taken and another trial piece made. This was repeated using a sheet of 2mm aluminium and again the positions were good.
A sheet of 5mm steel plate was acquired and then marked out, taking care as this is the final piece, all holes were scribed onto the plate and duly popped, including the centre of the axis engine/gearbox. A circle 220mm was scribed and popped at 20mm centres to keep the mark as engineers blue gets worn off. Another circle was scribed at 215mm and this was marked and popped at 5mm centres…then the drilling started 2mm in all holes and the opened out to 5mm on alternating holes , then the other ones were drilled carefully , taking care not to cause breakthrough into the adjacent hole and thus breaking the drill. Job done and only the original drills used,,,no breakages.
Then the plate was set in the vice and the stitch drilling joined up with a fine file and Pad handled hacksaw blade till the centre plate fell out…about four hours drilling and sawing then filing to the 220mm mark.
Then the drilling for the engine and gearbox hole was done, slightly out of step some may say, but my 8.1mm drill was at a friends who was drilling the boss…he has a big rotating table in the works drilling machine!!!, and the job is planned for the “night shift” and requires planning etc to ensure the foreman is at the other end of the shop. Job done for a bottle of Malt…good job and price
All the assembly is by Allen screws at 12,9 so are suitable for the loading expected during use, as a precaution a dab of locktite is applied to each screw on assembly.
The bits are now all machined and a trial fitting has taken place, now stripped it is on with the painting of the adaptor plate…Zinc Primer…a reasonable match to Aluminium casting.
While it is nominally ready for installation, I will wait until the MOT is done and probably after the Montlhery trip…do not want any problems on route. It sound easy!!!…I still have to sort out the carbs, the fuel supply, the exhaust and the wiring…and a few days out with Tom around the country.
Along the way I created AutoCAD drawings of the parts if anyone wants a copy please feel free to contact me, either for paper copies or a CAD file. These will need to be checked out so if you want them , there will be a short delay.
Fast forward to November 2016…the installation was delayed by events during the year, domestics etc and the 23rd Dreirad Treffen( I was co-host so had to have a reliable trike) and our closing week-ends. Thenegine is now in the car and I have repainted the parts welded etc and now it is on with the electrics, ignition, fuel, exhaust etc etc, so will be ready soon!!!
I will keep the forum updated of progress.