I’ve nagged Bill Davies to give us the story of the transformation of his Crozier Citron Powered, remarkably fast weapon to the Lightening Conductor he now drives with a Moto-Guzzi 1000 ccs Motor
The first project for this winter is the manufacture of new Spoked Wheels for the front of my trike, why well having been to the 23rd German Drierad Treffen last year and viewed a fair selection of trikes it became apparent that the original 2Cv wheels make the car look front heavy…IMHO. They are also fitted with a heavy section tyre that adds to the look. The rear wheel and the spare will remain standard 2CV.
There were some very nice shiney ones manufactured from an aluminium billet…a lot of machining and waste but a very nice finish. So I consulted with my welder friend and discussed the use of pipe fittings to manufacture a set of hubs. It is possible to buy un-drilled flanges of a size to be determined by me and concentric pipe reducers.
The plot was hatched , so I ordered a set of 200mm and 150mm flanges and a set of reducers 100mm to 50mm diameter to give an asthetically pleasing design. These duly arrived a week later and were brought to my workshop for drilling. The centre was found( approximate as the finished diameter will be machined to size at a later stage) and the spoke circumference was marked on. Using the same radius the circ was divided into six and the centres popped. Then a line was drawn between a pair of these centres and this was divided into three, a line was scribed through the wheel centre and the two marks to give an extension to the circumference. These two points were then popped and then using the original radius these were then struck around the circ. I now had 18 centres marked on the disc, and now the process was repeated on the other three discs. The design was to have 36 spokes, 18 on both the outer flange and 18 on the inner one, a standard in wire wheels.
Now the drilling commences, start with a 2mm drill to get a good fit to the pop and then open out to 4.5mm. The holes are then countersunk on alternative sides( mark with a marker pen before countersinking as it is easy to get carried away and countersink adjacent holes). The depth was to give a finished thickness of 3mm at the spoke holes.
As I intend to have them interchangeable with the 2CV hubs I also drilled and countersunk the stud holes, also needed to buy new wheel nuts to suit, and these need to be machined for taper match.
The centres were opened out using a hole saw and gently pressure on the drill and lots of oil to clean the teeth. It is necessary to lift the drill frequently to wash off the swarf.
Now a change of location to my pals workshop to use his big lathe and machine the bores to size for the taper pieces and preparation for welding. My pals although retired was a coded welder so I let him weld up the assemblies, the tapers were held off the table by approx 2mm(thick washers) to give a good weld penetration.
After cooling I returned the following day to machine to size, first the small flange then change the hub to do the second one’s small flange, The chuck is four jaw so by alternating it saves changing the jaw settings, But always centred on scribed marks. A stop for size measurement gave me a chance to observe my work…bloody hell…a crack extended half way round the weld. An examination of the other hub identified that a similar crack was present on it also.
We do not know what caused the problem, but we believe the flanges were cut from bright plate and on to mild steel. My friend had had a similar problem in the past, again with bright plate They say practise makes perfect so it was back to the shop for new plates and tapers(£75 down the pan…but that’s a development cost). Then marking out and drilling and countersinking all over again. Then primary machining and then welding, then on with the final sizing. This time inspection was at all stages to search for a crack…none…job well done.
Back home and a clean up took place to smooth off all edges and holes etc, then a trial fit on the stub axle only to find one fitted fine but the other needed a little more off the inside…so back to my pals for a shot on the big lathe.
Then painted up to match the car’s chassis principal colour…Hammerite Blue…it looks close to the French shade. Now it was time to take to the wheel builder for assembly. In a previous life I built up wheels for motorcycle restorations but at that time I knew the size of the spokes…ie length and could buy to order. I needed new spokes and rims so it was easier to give it to the man. Following on from Tom’s experience with steel spokes and nipples I went for galvanised spokes with brass nipples, to stop corrosion problems welding the two together. I spoke to a friend regarding stainless versions and he advised against as they can fire up on tightening before they are under load…not a good plot.
New tyres are the order of the day and I went for 4.00 x 18 as their diameter is similar to the existing wheels so they will give similar loading to the drive train, and the speedo should remain within accepted limits, about 10% faster than normal.. I do not believe it anyway and use the SAT NAV as a check. Another way is to observe the grass as it bends down as you pass, if lying flat your going too fast.
First fit revealed that the studs were too short so had to order new long studs for a Subaro M14.3 spline…M12 x 1.25, these fall through the existing holes(16mm dia) in the hub backplate so had to source material and manufacture top-hat washers to suit. A bit of a torque to pull them through but now they are IN and not coming out. A small worry that was in the back of my mind …could I get my bigpaws through the spokes to fit the wheel nuts and then be able to tighten them…no problems there was plenty clearance and there is a nice line for the wheel wrench.
Other problems to sort out include moving the centre line of the mudguards as the track has increased as has the turning lock so that needs checking for contact and the stops adjusted. Well I decided to buy the new mudguards and checked the internet…none…all sites are showing “due in the summer”. However I eventually found a pair in Germany(the last two in Europe!!!) and awaited with baited breath for there arrival. DPD were a problem but they arrived intact and were a good fit to the tyre so went ahead and fitted them. The brackets that I had made showed that the tyres was very close to the guard. The first run to the vintage motorcycle club resulted in stopping twice to stretch the curve to get more clearance, otherwise all ok and a nice drive…no shakes up to 60mph. Back home and the mounting holes were slotted to give a further 5mm clearance and all is well.
Well am I pleased…they say that Beauty is in the eye of the beholder…and I am happy, and so is my bank account. Now need to get some miles under my belt to prove them and develop their handling characteristics
Thanks to Jimmy Mc Farlane for the use of his welding skills and the Big Lathe
Winter Project 2015..
.Engine SwapAgain going to the Treffen had me thinking…Old git at the Back…none of it, I have a tow bar so was designated recovery in the event of a catastrophe. The other reason was my engine was a 2CV 602cc unit and I was competing against the might of Moto Guzzi and BMW, and I kept up but at times of overtaking I needed a run to get speed up and an overtaking distance of nearly half a mile when encountering an artic lorry. These German drivers go like the clappers when they are being challenged, and my “pals” were off up the road like scalded cats. I had a lot of catching up to do.
So I hatched a plot to convert to a bigger power house and initially proposed to fit a BMW probably a 1000cc. I have a friend who has accumulated a number of bikes and engines so he was going to solve my problem…I thought…no chance. He had plenty of bits and bobs and I could have built up an engine but that takes time etc etc. Then an engine came up on the forum, a Moto Guzzi 1100cc complete with carbs and at a reasonable price. A phone call secured the unit and I duly went south to collect it…took the camper and the dog( he knows nothing about engines but adds to the company).
Got the unit back home and then sorted out filters and gaskets to allow a full inspection prior to inserting into the car.
Now before fitting an engine you need to make a conversion plate to mount the engine/gearbox, and and adaptor for the flywheel to allow the use of the 2CV unit and clutch mechanism. I had a word with Dave P and he sent up a sketch of what he had done and what Phil now sells…so I believe.
Being Scots I am not averse to spending money but I enjoy the chase, so decided to manufacture my own.
Another lump of steel was bought and again I set off for a day at my pals to use the big lathe. I started to machine the plate to get the basic dimensions set up…then I got to thinking that there could be an easier way…manufacture a boss and bore the 2CV flywheel to suit and bolt the two together. Welding is not an option as the flywheel was a cast steel and welding is not practical, although we could have tried brazing but concluded that the heat could have distorted the assembly.
I bored the flywheel to 52mm, at which point the original fixing holes have been removed. On the inside face I extended the flat to 78mm to give a flat face for the cap screws to sit against.
Then I started to machine a boss to give an overall depth of 63.2mm, this is some 48.2mm long and 76.2mm diameter (it’s an piece of 3” bar that my friend had). A shoulder was formed at one end 10mm deep and 52mm dia , to slip into the flywheel.
The boss is bored 6 holes at 8.1mm dia on a 38mm PCD, these holes are counterbored 13mm dia for a depth of 30mm, this to allow the cap screws to be hidden down the holes. The flywheel was drilled 6 holes at 8.1mm dia on a 65mm PCD and the boss drilled and tapped 6 holes at M8 by 30mm deep on a 65mm PCD. This positions the flywheel in the correct relationship to the gearbox and allows the original clutch to be utillised. The two sets of holes are set 30degree apart to maximize the boss material.
The boss is then bored to suit the gearbox input shaft bearing at one end and to suit the crankshaft boss at the other end,
An adaptor plate was then marked out…the drawing on the forum shows the centres for the 2CV gearbox and I had to measure the position of the engine bolts by using a surface table and a height vernier. This was transferred onto a CAD drawing and then a sample was cut using the various dimensions. The 2CV positions were good but the engine was out…a second set of measurements was taken and another trial piece made. This was repeated using a sheet of 2mm aluminium and again the positions were good.
A sheet of 5mm steel plate was acquired and then marked out, taking care as this is the final piece, all holes were scribed onto the plate and duly popped, including the centre of the axis engine/gearbox. A circle 220mm was scribed and popped at 20mm centres to keep the mark as engineers blue gets worn off. Another circle was scribed at 215mm and this was marked and popped at 5mm centres…then the drilling started 2mm in all holes and the opened out to 5mm on alternating holes , then the other ones were drilled carefully , taking care not to cause breakthrough into the adjacent hole and thus breaking the drill. Job done and only the original drills used,,,no breakages.
Then the plate was set in the vice and the stitch drilling joined up with a fine file and Pad handled hacksaw blade till the centre plate fell out…about four hours drilling and sawing then filing to the 220mm mark.
Then the drilling for the engine and gearbox hole was done, slightly out of step some may say, but my 8.1mm drill was at a friends who was drilling the boss…he has a big rotating table in the works drilling machine!!!, and the job is planned for the “night shift” and requires planning etc to ensure the foreman is at the other end of the shop. Job done for a bottle of Malt…good job and price
All the assembly is by Allen screws at 12,9 so are suitable for the loading expected during use, as a precaution a dab of locktite is applied to each screw on assembly.
The bits are now all machined and a trial fitting has taken place, now stripped it is on with the painting of the adaptor plate…Zinc Primer…a reasonable match to Aluminium casting.
While it is nominally ready for installation, I will wait until the MOT is done and probably after the Montlhery trip…do not want any problems on route. It sound easy!!!…I still have to sort out the carbs, the fuel supply, the exhaust and the wiring…and a few days out with Tom around the country.
Along the way I created AutoCAD drawings of the parts if anyone wants a copy please feel free to contact me, either for paper copies or a CAD file. These will need to be checked out so if you want them , there will be a short delay.
Fast forward to November 2016…the installation was delayed by events during the year, domestics etc and the 23rd Dreirad Treffen( I was co-host so had to have a reliable trike) and our closing week-ends. Thenegine is now in the car and I have repainted the parts welded etc and now it is on with the electrics, ignition, fuel, exhaust etc etc, so will be ready soon!!!
Engine Swap the Update
I am coming to the end of my engine conversion and have had the beast running, now some of the minor things to do. ha ha yes after some wrong roads the mission was complete …. OR was it.
Well fast forward to Spring 2016, and we are ready for to off.
Or are we, everything is fitted and we press the Starter, nil action…the battery is stuffed after 10 years of faithful service so off to the garage for a new one. Then starter pressed again and there is a groan and a grunt, action nil…the starter will not turn the new engine, I was aware that this could be a problem so onto ebay and bought a 150% capacity unit from Manchester. Now the engine cranks nae bother.
The next problem is that the engine does not appear to be starting correctly, check fuel and note there is fuel dripping from the carbs, so need to get smaller float valves, fitted and there is an improvement, so book the ferry for the Hebridean trip. On advice from some of our fellow Forumisti I purchased the ignition from Silent Hektik..it is going to be a panacea or along these lines. Now I have a friend in Edinburgh who spends his time instead of having a coffee, in a ritual strip and rebuild of his Dellortos while we set them up and he arrives in time to drink them, his training in the Army has him stripping the aforesaid in the dark. He has been fixing his carbs for some three years.
Now in such hallowed company how could I fail !!!However before the Hebrides trip I conclude that the small float valves are no good…so back to the original ones. Well spectacularly if truth be told, the bugger would not start then fuel started to pour out of the carbs, a total nightmare. So I assumes that the best route is to “phone a friend” I calls up the well known supplier of Dellorto spares and they advise me that a smaller float needle set up is the answer, £90 lighter we press Start again and guess what fuel all over the floor.
Back to the start with the original float valves and behold the carbs are not leaking, so I have a set of small float valves spare now.
The crankcase breathing and the rocker box vents…what is the opinion as regards these, should they pass to a collection box with valve or should they be left to breath to atmosphere.
It is getting very busy under the bonnet, and the bonnet is about to undergo its third reconstruction so now’s the time to add pipework etc. and hopefully I can repaint it.
95% complete…65% to do be on the road sooooon.
The trike, is back on the road, MOT’d and some 80miles done.
It pulls like a train and motors along just fine, still fettling so only been as fast as 70 to date, need to order more toilet rolls.
Think I need to play with ignition just a wee bit to clear a slight stutter on acceleration. Discuss the Ignition setting with the UK Agent, starting to think they know less than me!!!
Looking forward to the Hebrides trip and then Holland. There will be other runs between them
An update to my trials.
The Hebrides trip went well, however
I am still not happy with the Silent Hektik set up so enter a discussion with their UK workshop and reset the parameters. Things are looking up, the engine is running a lot better and does not give me any real concern. So I go ahead and books me and trike onto the ferries for the Outer Hebrides Trip. All goes well and some 150 miles into the trip the engine has a wobbly and spits out the dummy. This is an engine crankcase problem and more of that later, the engine spat out the dummy, it blew the crank case non-return valve out and it lies somewhere on Vatersay, a simple modification was engineered…a sheet of paper towel a bottle cap and a wad of cotton rag. I succeeded in doing 500miles at a fair pace.
Now it is a policy of our group when on a run that when one fills up we all do. I seem to be taking on a lot more than my fellow travellers!!! To this end I start to record my fuel consumption and when home I divi it up and find my consumption is 34mpg NOT GOOD.
Now I have a phone call to my Edinburgh pal to share my troubles with, it is a pity that over the phone one cannot share a G&T, or maybe a good thing I could get to like calling him. I have definitely got “over fuelling” and the said stuff is pouring out the bell mouths.
Wind back a bit …. . In order to create a fire OR explosion there are three requirements, fuel, air(oxygen) and a source of ignition. If any of the three are missing then it will not happen, trust me, I have been there. Too little fuel no bang, too much fuel no bang. No oxygen no bang. No ignition no bang. Now there are three main fuels used in engines, paraffin, petrol and Diesel, and they follow the same general rules of combustion. Paraffin is used in a refined case to power our jet liners, but take a cup of paraffin and throw a lit match into it and you DO NOT get combustion. The only way to start a fire is to adopt a wick to allow a flame to be formed. You can try this at home. Diesel follows the same lines as paraffin and again you can try this at home.
Petrol however is totally different DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME. Petrol as a liquid is fairly stable it is the vapour that is extremely unstable and that is what we adopt in a manner that we hope is under control to power our cars. Please note that every year people are burned or worse when trying to light the family B&B using Petrol as a booster. The liquid does not burn but the vapour is lethal.
As has been said on the Forum the engine does not need to know how the fuel mix is supplied or how the sparks are generated, but if they are in the correct mix and at the appropriate time then we have Ignition.
We are now up to date with my problem so I phones my pal in Edinburgh and says I “I have got over fuelling” and in between our exchange we devise a Plan. Dump the excess fuel. But how?
Now like many of you I have a filter, lift pump and regulator to bring the fuel to the engine, the pump is working fine, I can hear it ticking away, so I allows it a few seconds and turn the key, well it starts but the right cylinder is not firing, too much fuel and it’s also dripping out the venturi. Something is causing the carbs to flood. My start procedure is totally wrong.
Now like many of the triking chaps I have fitted a Facet pump and regulator to control the fuel supply. Fine. But these pumps are Positive Displacement pumps that feed a set amount forward each pulse, as the fuel passes the regulator it controls the forward pressure …. OR does it. While the pressure is being controlled, the pump is merrily pushing more fuel forward whither it is required or not or whither the pressure is being exceeded, and this causes the fuel to push past the float valve. Yes the pressure is starting to rise as each pulse is squeezed into the pipe, and the net result is that the engine starts to OVERFUEL, combustion is not efficient, or may not be happening. In my case the exhaust pipe could be firmly gripped on the right hand cylinder, but not on the left hand one.
A search on Ebay reveal that the standard Low pressure system does not have a relief set up. However if you research the lift pumps used in Injected engines then their regulators have a dump port, in, out and return. This was the conclusion of our discussions, so I volunteered to be the trialist. My set up is a filter, pump, regulator all at the rear of the car with a 6mm fuel line to the carbs, the supply is split using a Tee at the front with some 300mm of pipe supplying each carb.
The plan was to interrupt the supply pipe with a Tee, and connect the 90 degree leg to the tank. This was mocked up with a fuel can and the result was a completely different engine, it started, accelerated and did what was expected.
Next morning the plot was done in a professional manner, properly connected at the engine end, and at the tank end a copper bend was silver soldered into the filler pipe. The pipes etc were securely fitted to the car and made ready for the off.
Now when in the past I switched ON and waited for the system to pressurise, I now turned the choke on, then turned the ignition and the engine starts. I was able to move off with part choke, in the past I had to warm the engine. The engine started to pull as expected and was very responsive. A quick blast around Ayr and down by Mr Trump’s new golf course, proved that with the “Dump” fitted there was NO reduction in engine performance, and that power was there when asked for, it now has plenty of grunt when asked for at all speeds. Back home and the engine cooled down I removed the plugs and found them to be clean and all old soot removed. The engine now ticks over at 1000rpm against the previous 2000rpm, a real challenge when selecting first in a non-synchro box. Oh bye the bye do not grip my exhausts now or you’ll be in the Burns Unit with sore paws.
The moral of this story is “Ask a Friend” he may not have the answer but may inadvertently open a door during discussion or give you a push in the right direction. Thanks Tom.
Now I would encourage all folk who are experiencing fueling problems to look in all the doorways as the “Poor Carb” is not always to blame. I hope that through this dissertation I have been able to convey how I resolved the problem. Having reported the results to Tom he has now ordered the parts to modify his car’s set up. As his pump/regulator/filter are at the front he is going to do a “local loop” in the bonnet to check the result, thus saving a line to the tank and the connection. We await his results.
Now I can see the surplus fuel returning to the tank.
Result…well indeed, the car starts and ticks over at 800rpm both cold and hot, and there is plenty grunt, enough to suit my driving needs and acceleration. The flash back through the carbs has gone.
The current update is that the engine was running like a sick pig on Monday night, pissn, wet and I was not going to stop!
Eventually got home and did some checking etc. and then set of to try my mods.
Was escorting a Pembleton home…well that was the intention, after 6 miles I turned back…the Facet fuel pump wasn’t, so back in the workshop bypassed the regulator and checked the pump. It appears to be running intermittently so is destined for the bin, new pumps scheduled for Thursday.
The old pump was rated at 4.5psi regulated to 1psi, now fitted a 1.5psi pump regulated to 1psi.
Been out today to shake down the car before a charge next week. Ran fine for some 80 miles and then it missed in the rain, stopped to check out the electrics and everything else, then it started and ran for another four miles then missed again then stopped. Possible the tank was too low in fuel, head for nearest garage etc. then it stopped again, then restarted again and I made a big lay-by.
Open bonnet and check all wires…nothing loose. then check fuel supply and get wet hand at filter hose so cuts a new section and fits it. Then find that the leak is not the hose but the filter body…now I have a new filter in stock…back in the garage!!!…not very useful however I did have a brass joiner so removed the filter and fitted the joiner and cleaned up.
Back on the road again the car drove like a dream, plenty power and no stutters.
Life is not always as it seems, the pump was drawing Air!!!
Fitted a small inline filter while awaiting replacement, so should be ok for next charge on Monday.
The Treffen, is getting nearer and now I am getting excited and so is the wife as she keeps reminding me she does NOT want any roadside events.
The trike, is now on song and got plenty grunt, no current problems although I have a vibration, no not that type of toy.
With the old engine there was no sign of vibration (2CV 602cc) and the car would tramp up to 70. Now with the Guzzi plant the vibration is being picked up around 55mph and is only effecting the off side mudguard. Tried another stay design but now conclude that the fixing base is too narrow and that the angle support that is too thin.
Before it breaks I am going to create more width and stiffness to the support and if good will do the same to the near side. That job was done none to soon as a crack had started to propagate through the steel angle.
Still have a minor niggle with the engine, when hot it will reduce revs to approx 2000 then hovers there unless I engage gear and brake at the same time…this then drops the revs to around 900 and it stays there for the traffic lights to change etc. Don’t like standing at 2000 or trying to select a non-synchro 1st gear.
Any ideas, the carbs appear fine, there is slack in the cables, ?????.
Now I have reached the middle of August and the small niggles are getting fewer and the car is reliable, in fact it has got me home every trip.
Set off for the Treffen in Holland early September to meet my good lady who had opted for the dry route…bus to Glasgow, Edinburgh, train to Newcastle and then Metro(2) to the pick-up point. As I left Ayr there was a light mist, the forecast was heavy rain around Carlisle. Wrong…the heavy rain started at the edge of town and continued all the way to Newcastle, a quick stop for a tinkle and then down to a filling station and bugger me if the sun comes out leaving me a plonker at the Metro station with my washing draped over the bonnet drying off.
The car ran fine through Holland up to about 5miles from the event when I sensed that the gearshift was not all well. At the hotel we checked in had a beer and forgot, life was good. In the morning after a quick lub check the run set off and we each took a shot of pointing the way to our group of 21 trikes. At mid-morning changes were not too smooth but we reached the coffee stop, the Dutch expert on Indian motorcycles, what a collection including a single wheel racer used in grass racing. After coffee the gear change didn’t, and I was left at the roadside with the breakdown car and trailer. Mutter and sweary words, June wants to know what next…me I lie on the road and find a 65mm M10 bolt that is shinny. Now where did that come from…blow me the engine is making a bid for freedom both bottom bolts are missing. Lucky for me an engineering workshop was doing a bit of o/time so a nut and bolt were sourced and the engine secured back in place. A short run up the road and all was well, smooth changes…lovely.
The rest of the event was without misfortune, each stop I checked the four engine bolts for tightness and they did not give any trouble.
Tom Rae and I stayed on for a couple of days and toured the North of Holland with Rene our Treffen host…what a beautiful country with an amazing number of roads, and all on the level. The Dutch import hills to create intersections and road junctions.
On the way back to the hotel on the last night the trike started a misfire then cleared, no real reason and nothing found. Then again on the return to Amsterdam for the boat it does it again. Again on reaching Newcastle for the run home it runs sweet until the top of the pass over to Carlisle and it stops, well I does a plug swop and check all the wiring etc without burning myself on the exhausts…been there done that.
The trike starts and I go to the garage at the summit and fill to the neck, and all is sweet until I get home.
A quick change and I am off again to the Camping weekend, meeting the lads at the Calder Garden Centre for coffee and then up to the Green Welly for lunch. After a smooth run to Ardlui the stutter starts again and I limp into lunch, a plate of Cullen Skink(not too sure what the soup does but it seemed to fix the engine!!) and I’m off again running sweet again although progress is slow being caused by a push bike event running up through Glencoe. All the old boys on the ride were at the front, the young bucks sitting side saddle at the back in severe agony at each bump.
After setting up camp and dinner it is off to bed. In the morning I decide to raise the pump pressure to 2psi about 4feet in old money and change the fuel filter to a paper element. Iain Ross decides to join me as Navigator as Jimmy McFarlane is missing and we set off…well no Les has a 2inch screw in his back tyre, so after a bit of buggering about and the injection of tyre goo into the wheel we are off, after a quick visit to the garage to increase the pressure.
Well this is about my troubles, but as the trike ran perfectly well all day with a fair bit of welly as required to keep up with Arthur’s 125… a good day out.
Graham another triker who came to the camp failed in grand style on the run home on Sunday after Connel he gives it a bit of welly and cruises to a stop on the verge, engine running fine no drive through the clutch. The AA were called and he arrived home in Galloway with a full tank of petrol, the diagnostic at site were a torn clutch centre, and on stripping he found that was exactly the problem.
Since getting home from France I have changed a leaking rocker gasket and changed an oil vent pipe…why do suppliers sell that shite clear plastic hose with tanks etc, the first bit of hot oil and the pipe changes characteristics and is u. s. Also moved the slide needle to the first groove so will see what effect that has on the next run.
Well your up to date, with all my adventures in fitting a Moto Guzzi engine, it’s been a fine trip with many adventures and sighs, but very pleasant and the net result is a transformation of the trike…I can now floor the throttle and the car sets of like a scalded cat…lots of grunt. Still need to get a better MPG currently around mid 40’s, but think I should get up to 50. Still have a problem with the tick over that hangs at 2000 then when I catch the engine with the clutch it drops to 750 and stays there…any ideas gratefully received, written on the back of a fiver please.
Oh by the way…the new engine never failed me, I always got to my destination and back home on all run outs, so if it’s listening …your ok pal. We have now done some 2000 miles all at speed.
Bill Davies 21 October 2016